CPP 64-67 Nova Stock Spindle Disc Brake Kit - OEM MC removal
This page describes the removal of the OEM master cylinder.
[WARNING/DISCLAIMER: use this information at your own risk, modifying automobile brake systems can lead to dangerous situations, always have a trained mechanic check your work, I take no responsibility for the results, you've been warned, you're on your own...]
Drain the rear brake line:
I disconnected the line at the flex hose and used a length of rubber hose to drain the fluid into a jar
Original master cylinder (MC) with Hurst Line-Lock. I'm going to remove the line lock as part of this install.
Once the lines are set up to drain, remove top of MC to speed up the draining.
Some fluid already drained
Nearly empty...you will need to drain both the front and rear circuits. Note the color of the brake fluid here is brown. That indicates that there is rust in the brake system. DOT3 brake fluid will absorb water, and that water will corrode the brake system from the inside out. You should flush your brake fluid every few years. Obviously I haven't been keeping up with that maintentance...
The 62-66 Nova has a single chamber MC, the 67 has dual. I upgraded this to a dual chamber setup using a 67 MC about 15 years ago..
Tubing wrenches - a must for working with tubing nuts. They grab more corners of the nuts, which avoids rounding them off. You can use an open end wrench if you are very careful.
Once the fluid is drained, disconnect the brake lines.
Soaking up last of fluid in rear chamber with a paper towel. DOT3 brake fluid will take off paint. Be careful not to spill it on painted surfaces.
Removing rear hard line. Note that two wrenches used to avoid twisting the brake line.
All empty, lines removed. Next step is to remove the two nuts on mounting flange
Once the nuts are removed...
...the MC will pull off of the mounting studs and pushrod.
All done. Nothing left but the mounting studs and pushrod
Unless otherwise specified, all text and images on this page are © Copyright 2006 by Pat Mancuso.